Guardalavaca

I got up very early for the trip to Guadalavaca. The landlady had prepared breakfast. She said: I woke up every hour when the grandfather clock went bong!, checked my watch and went back to sleep for another hour, until it was the right time. Oh no! I felt guilty that she had gone to all that trouble. I should have given her my alarm clock, but it was the only one I had, and battery powered, maybe not a good thing in Cuba.

The streets were cool and quiet at 0600 as I walked to L's casa. Her landlady explained the modus operandi: When the workers' bus for Guardalavaca arrives you get on and give the driver the fare. The driver let me on but he wouldn't take L. I pleaded with the driver but he was firm. L said to me: You go then. I said to the driver: She's with me, we either go together or not. The driver wouldn't relent, so that was that. L looked upset; discrimination hurts. I don't know why I passed muster but she didn't. Perhaps I didn't look as out of place amongst the workers as an Aussie girl might.

We went back the casa and told our tale. The landlady said to go to the bus station and try to get transport to Rafael Freyes and from there change for Guardalavaca. The first part of the journey in a open camion (lorry) was cool with the fresh air. At Rafael Freyes, a road junction and transport interchange, the system broke down. There was a long queue for Guardalavaca. After ½ hour a bus came. It was crammed like crazy but friendly locals pushed us onto the bus. (The guide had said that this part of Cuba was the most friendly for this sort of adventure.)

Guardalavaca means guard the cow, a strange name for a town indeed. There are several legends about the origin of the name. The guide book joked that lifeguards watching over obese tourists might be a modern meaning. There were lots of beach bungalows for the package tourists and the whole place looked sterile. This outdoor bar was in the shape of a Columbus ship. But the Caribbean waters were clear and the beach was lovely. There was a private section for the resort and a public section. We found a quiet spot and had a dip.

Around 1500 we decided to head back to Holguin. Again we were denied access to the workers' bus. We tried to find a bus back to Rafael Freyes but no luck. A taxi came along and offered to take us back to Holguin for $20. After conferring, we accepted.

We had dinner at the Begonia with a Dutch couple from L's casa. I had to leave right after dinner to see a film at a cinema. 17 Fois Cécile Cassard was a slightly heavy art-house French film starring Beatrice Dalle, comprising various episodes in a woman's life after bereavement. It also starred Romain Duris, who was to become a heartthrob actor later.