I started the morning with a drive down to El Golfo on the western side of the island which has a wild beach and wind-sculpted rocks, quite a contrast to the bathing beaches of the east.
Surprisingly some vegetation manages to grow in this inhospitable terrain.
The salt pans of Las Salinas de Janubio are also there.
Then I drove north to the Timanfaya park entrance. On the 1st of September 1730, the volcano erupted and ejected lava for 6 long, noisy years. By the time it had quietened down, some 200 square km of land had been devastated.
Today the area is a national park with strictly regulated access to protect the delicate flora and fauna. It is possible to park at the kiosk at the Islote de Hilario, which is not really an islet, but an elevated rise. You can feel the heat emanating from underground by picking up a stone.
One cannot drive on the Ruta de los Volcanes, but must take a tour in the official buses.
Unfortunately the bus doesn't make stops to let passengers explore the landscape so these photos were taken out of the windows.
Volcanic rocks must be some of the ugliest rocks on the planet. They are whatever grotesque shape the solidification and subsequent weathering left them in. They aren't even fractal, just swirling, jagged and mishappen. They are also dull colours of brown and black.
From a high point we could see a train of tourists enjoying their camel ride across the desolate landscape. You also see the access road into the park here.
Back at the kiosk, they put on a couple of entertaining demonstrations of volcanic heat. In the first, some brushwood is shoved into a hole.
A few moments later, it's a ball of flame.
Next, a demonstrator pours a bucket of water down a pipe.
And voila, a geyser.
In keeping with the theme of subterranean thermal energy, the meat served in the restaurant is cooked on this volcanic grill.
The Restaurant del Diablo has lampshades in the shape of frypans. You should not be surprised to read that César Manrique designed the decor.
The afternoon's tale will be in the next post.
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